How to measure Nails on a Truss for Wind mitigation

DSC07468 Hurricane-wrap2

 

Understand Your Wind Mitigation Report

First and foremost there is NO PASS or FAIL for the Wind Mitigation Report.  It is just an evaluation as to the construction of the home to see if you qualify for insurance discounts.  Just because you do not get every discount does not mean your house was built poorly or substandard.  Your house passed the guidelines set by the state of Florida and the present jurisdiction your in.  This form was compromised in 2012, so it did not exist when many of the houses were built, so the builder did not have this form when the houses were built so how could he maximize the discounts?

Once again there is NO PASS or FAIL.  It’s just an evaluation of what is present.  It is NOT an INSPECTION report of this company.  It is a report that was established by the Insurance Industry in Florida and we have very specific guidelines to follow and we are subject to have an inspector to follow up right behind us to ensure what we have reported is in fact the exact conditions that we reported.

Lets break it down line by line

OWNER INFORMATION – The heading is just the information that WE HAVE for the client.  It may not be filled out fully, its because we do NOT HAVE the information.  We have put in as much information as we have.  Feel free to add information to this header.

Here is an explanation of the Wind Mitigation Form

1. Building Code: This section asks if the building was built In compliance with the 2001 Florida Building Code or if the home is located in a High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ) that that is built in compliance with the South Florida Building Code of 1994 (SFBC-94). This is determined by the permit application date of the building. The plans were drawn up and approved under the building codes that were in effect at that time. This lets the insurance company know how old and what codes it was built under. There is nothing that can change this other than demolition of the house and rebuild under newer codes.

2. Roof Covering: This section is asking for the application date of when the roof covering was installed or the (2001 Florida Building Code) FBC/MDC (Miami-Dade County) product approval numbers for the roof covering installed. If a roof was replaced and no permit was pulled there is no verification of what codes this was replaced under, therefore the date will be either the last recorded permit pulled for the roof or the original installation during the time of original construction. To qualify for option A. 2001 Building Code the permit application date has to be on or after 03/01/2002. To qualify for option B. Miami Dade approval listing current at the time of the installation or for HVHZ only, permit applications date after 09/01/1994 and before 03/02/2002.

3. Roof Deck Attachment: The weakest form has to be documented. The form pretty much describes it. This is document what type attachment is used to hold on the roof sheathing and how much uplift it will withstand.

Option A: Plywood/Oriented strand board (OSB) roof sheathing attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24″ inches o.c.)by staples or 6d nails spaced at 6″ along the edge and 12″ in the field. -OR- Batten decking supporting wood shakes or wood shingles. -OR- Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that has an equivalent mean uplift less than that required for Options B or C below.

Option B: Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16″inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24″inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 12″ inches in the field.-OR- Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that is shown to have an equivalent or greater resistance 8d nails spaced a maximum of 12 inches in the field or has a mean uplift resistance of at least 103 psf.

Option C: Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16″inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24″inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6″ inches in the field. -OR- Dimensional lumber/Tongue & Groove decking with a minimum of 2 nails per board (or 1 nail per board if each board is equal to or less than 6 inches in width). –OR Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that is shown to have an equivalent or greater resistance than 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6 inches in the field or has a mean uplift resistance of at least 182 psf

Option D: Reinforce Concrete Roof Deck

Option E: Other

Option F: Unknown or Unidentified

Option G: No Attic Access

4. Roof to Wall Attachment: This section described the way the trusses are attached to the main house structure. A minimum of three nails need to be used with every option other than toe nails.

Toe Nails are a single nail driven through the truss at an angle into the top plate of the supporting wall.

Clips are metal connectors that do not wrap over the top of the truss/rafter, or Metal connectors with a minimum of 1 strap that wraps over the top of the truss/rafter and does not meet the nail position requirements of C or D, but is secured with a minimum of 3 nails.

Single Wraps are metal connectors consisting of a single strap that wraps over the top of the truss/rafter and is secured with a minimum of 2 nails on the front side and a minimum of 1 nail on the opposing side.

 

 

BOTTOM LINE GET A WIND MITIGATION THAT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY ON YOUR INSURANCE

AJ DEEREY

NAPLES HOME INSPECTOR

SLAB-2-SHINGLES

A Condominium Inspection is not as detailed as a Single Family Home Inspection but it is just as important!

With a Condo Inspection most of it is looking at the structure, mechanics, electric, plumbing and systems inside the particular unit. We also check items such as; if the condo is facing the sun or the wind, listen for noises inside and outside the unit, check security and look at the garage area if there is one involved in the property.

Common elements such as hallways, facades and common mechanical systems typically aren’t examined by the inspector because they aren’t part of the specific unit you’re buying. These items are the responsibility of your condo association. The Association should be able to give you a Reserve Study that was done by the architects and engineers when the structure was built. This will give the building’s structural and mechanical elements along with anticipated maintenance and repair work to be done over the next 5 years.

Mold Inspection in a Condo can be imperative as well since you do not have access to your neighboring condo owners. Slab 2 Shingles will use infrared light to see inside your walls and detect any problems that are there or may arise in the future.

Prior to closing on a property the home buyer or a representative for the home buyer should conduct a pre-closing inspection.

This is when to take the prior home inspection list and make sure all of the items have either been addressed or fixed. Slab 2 Shingles will do this for a nominal fee at the Buyer’s Request.

Here is a general checklist:
Closing Inspection Services in Florida

GENERAL ELECTRICAL

  • Are the items agreed to be left by the seller present?
  • Do the lights come on at each switch?
  • Is there visible damage with the owner’s furniture now gone that you couldn’t see before?
  • Are all of the light fixtures and ceiling fans present and working?
  • Are the smoke detectors functional?
  • Do the breakers work correctly?

EXTERIOR AND STRUCTURE

  • Check cracks, or separations?
  • Have the repairs and painting been finished?
  • Are wooden decks and hand rails secure?
  • Have you walked around the property?

KITCHEN

  • Are the appliance accessories present?
  • Do the appliances still operate satisfactorily?
  • Are the instructions/warranties left for the appliances?
  • Do the cabinets, countertops, or floors appear damaged?

CRAWL SPACE, AIR DUCTS

  • Are the lowest portions dry?
  • Are crawl space vents open for good ventilation?
  • Do you see any wet spots?

HEATING AND COOLING*

  • Do the systems function when you operate the thermostat?
  • Are the air filters clean?
  • Any extra filters left?
  • Is there debris clogging the exterior air units?

LOT AND GROUNDS

  • Any changes to the driveway, patio, or sidewalks?
  • Are the fences tight, and do the gates operate?
  • Reset the automatic sprinkler to minimum setting.

GARAGE

  • Do the vehicle doors work smoothly and reverse?
  • Do you have the car door remote controls?
  • Do you see any damage with the personal items gone?

INTERIOR WALLS, CEILINGS, AND FLOORS

  • Are the carpets stained in closets near the shower areas?
  • Are there holes or damage from the move-out?
  • Are there broken or “fogged” windows or doors?

SURFACE WATER CONTROL

  • Has the re-grading (if any), been accomplished?
  • Are the gutters aligned and cleaned of debris?
  • Do the downspouts direct water positively away?

PLUMBING

  • Do the faucets and drains function satisfactorily?
  • Is there hot water at each appropriate location?
  • Do the toilets flush and cycle normally?
  • Check beneath each cabinet for leaks or moisture.

ROOF

  • Are there missing shingles since the last visit?
  • Have the roof repairs (if any), been performed?
  • Is the attic ventilation open and working if power?
  • Are the bushes and trees trimmed back and not touching?

Homebuyers of newly constructed homes may not be aware they may have an inspection clause included with their new home contract.

The truth is, a new homebuyer can greatly benefit from using a professional home inspector during the construction and completion of their new home.New Home Inspection Services in Florida

The majority of construction tasks (foundation, framing, plumbing, electrical, etc.) are usually subcontracted out to the lowest bidder, with speed, not quality being an important consideration for the builder. With many separate activities going on at the same time, it’s nearly impossible for the contractor/builder to personally monitor all phases of the home construction.

Don’t assume your builder — or the contractors — did everything right just because the home passed code. An inspector is your last line of defense against major defects that could quite literally sink your financial future.

Home Inspections

As we continue to go through season here in southwest Florida, the real estate market is heating up and more and more houses are being sold. Trust us to be your home inspector when purchasing a home. It is the biggest investment you will make.  Give us a call today to schedule an inspection BEFORE you make your home purchase.

 

Post-Storm Home Inspections

Many southwest Floridians were recently affected by the big storms we had over the weekend. The high winds, lighting, and rain has created a lot of damage around Naples and at many people’s homes. If you’re home was affected, or you want to make sure you didn’t miss any damage, give us a call today and let us give you a detailed home inspection. We hope everyone is safe and healthy and doing better this Monday morning.

Radon Testing

Check out some of the frequently asked questions about what Radon is and if getting your home tested for it is important.

http://sosradon.org/real%20estate

“The EPA recommends that all houses, regardless of what radon zone the house is located in, be tested for radon during point of sale.”