Understand Your Wind Mitigation Report
First and foremost there is NO PASS or FAIL for the Wind Mitigation Report. It is just an evaluation as to the construction of the home to see if you qualify for insurance discounts. Just because you do not get every discount does not mean your house was built poorly or substandard. Your house passed the guidelines set by the state of Florida and the present jurisdiction your in. This form was compromised in 2012, so it did not exist when many of the houses were built, so the builder did not have this form when the houses were built so how could he maximize the discounts?
Once again there is NO PASS or FAIL. It’s just an evaluation of what is present. It is NOT an INSPECTION report of this company. It is a report that was established by the Insurance Industry in Florida and we have very specific guidelines to follow and we are subject to have an inspector to follow up right behind us to ensure what we have reported is in fact the exact conditions that we reported.
Lets break it down line by line
OWNER INFORMATION – The heading is just the information that WE HAVE for the client. It may not be filled out fully, its because we do NOT HAVE the information. We have put in as much information as we have. Feel free to add information to this header.
Here is an explanation of the Wind Mitigation Form
1. Building Code: This section asks if the building was built In compliance with the 2001 Florida Building Code or if the home is located in a High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ) that that is built in compliance with the South Florida Building Code of 1994 (SFBC-94). This is determined by the permit application date of the building. The plans were drawn up and approved under the building codes that were in effect at that time. This lets the insurance company know how old and what codes it was built under. There is nothing that can change this other than demolition of the house and rebuild under newer codes.
2. Roof Covering: This section is asking for the application date of when the roof covering was installed or the (2001 Florida Building Code) FBC/MDC (Miami-Dade County) product approval numbers for the roof covering installed. If a roof was replaced and no permit was pulled there is no verification of what codes this was replaced under, therefore the date will be either the last recorded permit pulled for the roof or the original installation during the time of original construction. To qualify for option A. 2001 Building Code the permit application date has to be on or after 03/01/2002. To qualify for option B. Miami Dade approval listing current at the time of the installation or for HVHZ only, permit applications date after 09/01/1994 and before 03/02/2002.
3. Roof Deck Attachment: The weakest form has to be documented. The form pretty much describes it. This is document what type attachment is used to hold on the roof sheathing and how much uplift it will withstand.
Option A: Plywood/Oriented strand board (OSB) roof sheathing attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24″ inches o.c.)by staples or 6d nails spaced at 6″ along the edge and 12″ in the field. -OR- Batten decking supporting wood shakes or wood shingles. -OR- Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that has an equivalent mean uplift less than that required for Options B or C below.
Option B: Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16″inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24″inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 12″ inches in the field.-OR- Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that is shown to have an equivalent or greater resistance 8d nails spaced a maximum of 12 inches in the field or has a mean uplift resistance of at least 103 psf.
Option C: Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16″inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24″inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6″ inches in the field. -OR- Dimensional lumber/Tongue & Groove decking with a minimum of 2 nails per board (or 1 nail per board if each board is equal to or less than 6 inches in width). –OR Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that is shown to have an equivalent or greater resistance than 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6 inches in the field or has a mean uplift resistance of at least 182 psf
Option D: Reinforce Concrete Roof Deck
Option E: Other
Option F: Unknown or Unidentified
Option G: No Attic Access
4. Roof to Wall Attachment: This section described the way the trusses are attached to the main house structure. A minimum of three nails need to be used with every option other than toe nails.
Toe Nails are a single nail driven through the truss at an angle into the top plate of the supporting wall.
Clips are metal connectors that do not wrap over the top of the truss/rafter, or Metal connectors with a minimum of 1 strap that wraps over the top of the truss/rafter and does not meet the nail position requirements of C or D, but is secured with a minimum of 3 nails.
Single Wraps are metal connectors consisting of a single strap that wraps over the top of the truss/rafter and is secured with a minimum of 2 nails on the front side and a minimum of 1 nail on the opposing side.
BOTTOM LINE GET A WIND MITIGATION THAT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY ON YOUR INSURANCE
NAPLES HOME INSPECTOR